Italian food

Italian tomato tradition

The end of summer is fast approaching and it’s peak time for tomatoes. The Italian tradition (at least, here in Australia) is to make sugo di pomodoro (tomato sauce). And as I mentioned at the beginning of my Italian summer, to live like an Italian, the Italian tomato tradition is definitely one to embrace.

We have an abundance of these summery red orbs, so it was into the kitchen and on with the sauce. I made two different sauces – Sugo pronto, a ready-made sauce which can be used as a base for tomato sauce based dishes. The other, Passata (tomato puree), using roasted tomatoes flavoured with garlic, herbs and a small amount of cipolla (onion).

Both sauces turned out well, but we were surprised at the small amount of sauce we ended up with compared to the huge quantity of tomatoes we started with.

There are lots of recipes for Sugo pronto (homemade tomato sauce) with different combinations of ingredients included with your tomatoes. For my sauce, I used cipolle (onions), aglio (garlic) and cedano (celery), with the addition of oregano, basil and sage which I tied into a bundle. I’ve included a few photos of my sauce making efforts.

making tomato sauce — Heat olive oil and sauté the onions. garlic and celery until soft

Cooking the tomato sauce — Cooking the sugo

For the passata (roasted tomato sauce), we used our cherry tomatoes. The process was simple and the end result was gustoso (tasty).

Passata

Ingredients:

Ripe tomatoes

Salt flakes and freshly ground pepper

Oregano and basil sprigs

2 fresh bay leaves

Small red onion sliced (you can use sliced french shallots, if you prefer)

Garlic, sliced (to your taste)

Olive oil

Method:

Halve the tomatoes and place in a single layer in a baking dish.
Season with plenty of salt and pepper.
Add the onion, garlic, oregano, basil and bay leaves.
Pour over the oil.
Roast in a 150 degree preheated oven until the tomatoes begin to blister and collapse.
Remove the herbs and bay leaves.
Pass the tomatoes, garlic and onion through a sieve to remove the skins.
Blitz the sauce in a food processor.
Pour into sterilised jars and heat seal if you plan to store it for the winter.

Italian tomato traditions are not only for Italians. If you have a bountiful harvest, why not try and make your own! The taste is so much better than anything you’ll find in your local store.

Buon lavoro e buon appetito!

PS: I’d love you to share your recipe for tomato sauce!

Purple beauties

After a week away from my garden, I found some glossy, purple beauties peeking through the leaves in my vegetable patch. My slim ladyfinger eggplants whispered, “pick us”.

Eggplant is such an modest name — the Italian melanzana, and the french aubergine, roll off the tongue easily and seem more fitting names for these beautiful purple fruits. Yes, even though it is treated as a vegetable, it’s a fruit because it bears seeds within the flesh – much like the the tomato, which is from the same botanical family.

Introduced to Italy by the Arabs, they were initially grown as ornamentals and were avoided in the kitchen. Hard to believe, as the Italians have perfected the art of cooking melanzane in a variety of different ways — Melanzana alla parmigiana (Eggplant parmesan) is one of the most popular and Melanzane ripiene (stuffed eggplant) is also delicious.

As I only had three mature fruits, they weren’t enough for these classic Italian dishes, but they were the perfect quantity to marinate and include on my antipasto platter.

As usual, I reached for my recipe books. I found a quick and easy recipe for marinated eggplant in Italian Kitchen, a book filled with classic, simple Italian dishes. I adjusted the quantities for my three eggplants, but here is the original:

Marinated eggplant (Melanzane marinate)

Serves: 6-8 Prep time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

750gr eggplant
60ml olive oil, plus extra (I used extra virgin from Primo Estate, a winery in McLaren Vale, south of Adelaide)
2 tblsp balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves crushed
1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped
2 tblsp chopped flat leaves parsley

Method:

Cut the eggplant into thick diagonal slices. Put in a colander, sprinkle with salt and leave to stand over a bowl for 30 minutes.(I omitted this as my ladyfingers aren’t bitter). Rinse under cold water and pat dry.

sliced eggplant — Sliced eggplant, ready for frying

Heat a little oil in a frying pan and brown the eggplant in batches. Transfer to a bowl, toss with the dressing and parsley and marinate for 4 hours. Serve at room temperature.

Dressing:

Whisk the oil, vinegar and anchovy until smooth. Season to taste.

My final result was a hit and the dish is now a fixture on my antipasto list, especially as it is so quick to prepare.

I’m looking forward to harvesting a few more melanzane and I’d love to try my hand at preserving some of these purple beauties.

Giardinaggio felice! (Happy gardening)

PS: If you have a favourite Italian recipe for melanzane, I’d love to hear from you!

Christmas Canestrelli

‘Tis the season to be jolly — and to continue my Italian summer theme, I’m baking some Christmas canestrelli to give as gifts. Don’t you think they look beautiful in my beautiful glass container by Creative Glass Gifts?

Canestrelli are delicious buttery Italian cookies originally from the Italian region of Liguria. Traditionally they were baked at Easter and they are also served at weddings and christenings. But these flower-shaped shortbread cookies which are generously dusted with icing sugar, are a great alternative to my usual Christmas shortbread.

Canestrelli means ‘little baskets’ which refers to the baskets in which the cookies were placed to cool after baking.

My recipe is adapted from cookbook La Cucina – The regional cooking of Italy and is really simple to prepare.

Canestrelli

Servings: approx 30 cookies Prep time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes

Ingredients:

150 gr all-purpose flour
50 gr potato flour
100 gr butter, cubed and softened
zest of 1 lemon
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 egg separated, egg white beaten until frothy
pinch of salt
70 gr icing sugar
pinch of baking powder
extra icing sugar for dusting

Method:

Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix ...simple! — Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix …simple!

Sift the flours into bowl. Add the butter, lemon zest, vanilla, egg yolk, salt, icing sugar and baking powder. Mix with a fork until the mixture comes together. This can also be done in a food mixer.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead into a ball. Wrap in plastic and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Roll out the dough to form a sheet about 5mm thick and cut out flower shapes with a small hole in the centre.

canestrelli ready to be baked — Canestrelli ready to be baked

Place the cookies on a baking sheet and brush them with the egg white.

Bake at 190 degrees for 10 minutes, or until pale golden.

Dust with icing sugar while still warm and again when cool.

Christmas Canestrelli - ready to eat — Christmas Canestrelli – ready to eat!

Enjoy with your morning coffee, or in Australia, serve at afternoon tea. Or give as a gift in a beautiful container.

Buon appetito!

PS: Do you have a favourite Italian biscotto that you serve at Christmas? I’d love you to share the recipe!

Recipes for my Italian summer

I love cooking and I’m a cook who needs a recipe, so they are always on my reading list. I’ve been known to while away a few hours looking though cookbooks when there is an occasion coming up (and even when there isn’t one!). I have lots — not only Italian, also Thai, Vietnamese and Greek. My favourite chefs are Delia Smith, Nigella (who also loves Italy and Italian cooking), Luke Nguyen and Aussie chef Karen Martini whose recipes feature Italian, Greek and Lebanese food. I also have recipe books dedicated to Italian food, as well as books that focus on Italian regional cuisine. Now I have another excuse to while away some time looking at recipes for my Italian summer. It’s research, right?

A few years ago I received from amore mio a tome of a book called La cucina – the regional cooking of Italy. It’s from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina (Italian Academy of Cuisine) which was founded more than 60 years ago, to preserve the the culinary heritage of Italy. With more than 2000 recipes from all regions of Italy, it’s a veritable encyclopaedia of traditional Italian cooking. You can find recipes on their website. (It’s in Italian and you have to register to access the recipes)

Authentic Italian recipes for an italian summer — La Cucina, an embodiment of authentic regional Italian cooking

When I first opened the book, I was intimidated. Not a picture in sight! And recipes for anything from smoked goose to polenta fruitcake, laurel liqueur to wild herb soup, and pasta in a myriad ways.

I haven’t cooked many dishes from the book but my Italian summer plans call for another look. I hope I can do justice to these traditional Italian recipes.

Here’s a peek . . .

Braised asparagus — Recipe for braised asparagus

Even though some of the recipes come from traditional kitchens when Italians grew most of what they ate, they are open to interpretation. As Paolo Petroni, founder of the Slow Food Movement says,”tradition is in perpetual motion and new life must always be breathed into the past”.

Here’s to giving new life to ancient traditions!

Buona cucina!

PS: Do you have a favourite Italian recipe that’s been passed down from your nonna? Please share if it’s not a secret!

Living like a local in Genova

Cities are beautiful because they are created slowly; they are made by time. A city is born from a tangle of monuments and infrastructures, culture and markets, national history and everyday stories. It takes 500 years to create a city, 50 to create a neighborhood.

~ Renzo Piano, Italian architect

Grand buildings in Piazza de Ferrari, Genoa

The experience of living like a local even for a week or two is what many of us aspire to when we travel. Shopping where the locals shop, finding a bar for your morning coffee where the barista greets you like a regular each day, exchanging a few words with the locals—will give you a buzz and sense of belonging.

Genova’s historical centre (il centro storico) is a great place to experience a slice of local life. There’s the labyrinth of narrow alleys (i carrugi) to get lost in, the myriad of shops, and at happy hour (ora dell’aperitivo) around 7pm when all the locals are out and about, there’s the mad crush.

I love it!

Narrow alleyways of Genoa historical centre — The narrow alleyways of the historical centre where locals live, work, and shop

The rhythm of life in these carrugi is so far removed from our Australian lifestyle, especially in Adelaide where you have to jump in your car to buy a litre of milk. In Genova, when you step out of your door, you’re in the city’s heart.

And anything you need—from freshly baked focaccia and local cheese, getting your shoes repaired (at il calzolaio) and keys cut, to buying a new pair of jeans and the hairdresser (il parrucchiere)—is just a short walk away.

Italians buy fresh produce daily. And no wonder, everything they need is but a short walk away. Supermarkets are few and are usually very small. The small specialty shops where you can get to know the owners are the places to be. After a few days they’ll recognise you and greet you with buongiorno signora!

A great place to shop is the oriental market (Il Mercato Orientale). You’ll find fresh produce as well as meat, fish and local cheese. A lively place with friendly stall holders who are always happy to help even if your Italian only stretches to buongiorno, per favore, and grazie. These three words are the important ones as Italians are always respectful and expect good manners in return. A tip: don’t handle the produce, ask for assistance.

Here’s a great video (credit: David Downie)…

For your freshly baked bread including traditional genovese focaccia, the bakery (il panificio) is the place to go.

Panificio for focaccia and bread — A huge variety of bread is available at the local panificio, including focaccia genovese

Find your favourite delicatessen (alimentari or salumeria) —there are a number of them around the centre—for cheese, cold meats, olives and other ready to eat treats.

Shopping like a local in Genova — Salami, prosciutto, mortadella as well as different types of sausages and meat, served with a smile from the macellaio always impeccably dressed in his red uniform complete with splendid white hat

If you don’t want to make your pasta (many Italians don’t these days), there’s fresh pasta from the pasta fresca.

For a great coffee and your morning pastry (brioche)—a regular routine of Italians on their way to work or shop—try the Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescotti di Cavo (Bar Cavo to the locals). Housed in a historic building and operating since 1860, the bar has a fascinating history.

It is also a beautiful place to enjoy un aperitivo every afternoon from 5pm—try their famous liqueur Il Marescotto and equally famous almond biscuit, amaretto di Voltaggio.

For the full experience, why not stay in the historical centre. You’ll really be living like a local if you do!

Buon soggiorno!

PS: Have you experienced living like a local somewhere in Italy? Please share…I’d love to hear your story!

Italian celebrations – Ferragosto

[dropcap size=dropcap]I[/dropcap]talians love celebrations. At any time of the year you can experience a sagra – a festival dedicated to a particular local food; truffles, polenta, fish… or a saint’s day when special dishes are eaten, or the well known celebrations like the Venice Carnevale or the Palio in Siena. On 15 August it’s Ferragosto, from the latin feriae Augusti (Augustus’ rest).

Ferragosto is an Italian tradition dating back to the year 18BC when Emperor Augustus declared it the beginning of festivities to mark the the end of the harvest season. It was a time of rest and celebrations which included the animals that laboured during the harvest.

Later, the church proclaimed it a religious holiday, commemorating the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. And still later, Mussolini declared 15 August a national holiday with discounted train travel (called the ‘people’s trains of Ferragosto’) so that Italians could visit different parts of the country.

The festive tradition continues today with some shops and businesses closing not just for the day — Chiuso per ferie — but for their annual vacation. Typically, it’s the hottest time of year and many Italians begin their annual holidays around this date. On the 15th, they head to the beach or get together with friends and family.

If you’re in Italy, you’ll find celebrations in many places, with food, music and parades. There is the Festa del mare (festival of the sea) in Diano Marina, Ligura which ends with fireworks in the evening. Rome has the Gran Ballo di Ferragosto which are live dance performances in the piazze and in Montepulciano there is an historical pageant and games. Whatever takes your fancy, you’ll find a celebration to suit you somewhere in Italy.

If you’re like me and you’re not in Italy now, you might like to get into the spirit of Ferragosto with the charming Italian film Pranzo di Ferragosto (Mid August Lunch). It’s a bittersweet story about Gianni, a middle-aged man who lives with his demanding 93 year old mother. Gianni is a bit of a no-hoper who owes money around town and likes to have a drink. As a consequence of his debts, Gianni finds himself spending Ferragosto taking care of four demanding women who have little in common. Humorous and sweet, the film also gives you an insight into the respect that Italians have for their older relatives.

Food of course is a big part of any Italian celebration. Grigliati (barbecues) are popular, and delicious summer fruits and vegetables as well as pasta are eaten. Chilled slices of watermelon (cocomero or anguria) is a favourite and you will find many roadside stalls selling this delicious taste of summer.

Here’s a great recipe for watermelon sorbet.

http://ricette.giallozafferano.it/Sorbetto-all-anguria.html

Whatever you’re doing today, have a happy holiday!

Buon Ferragosto! …Isabella

PS: Thanks to Nicolette for the featured graphic

Italian tomato tradition

Passata

Ingredients:

Method:

Halve the tomatoes and place in a single layer in a baking dish.

Season with plenty of salt and pepper.

Add the onion, garlic, oregano, basil and bay leaves.

Pour over the oil.

Roast in a 150 degree preheated oven until the tomatoes begin to blister and collapse.

Remove the herbs and bay leaves.

Pass the tomatoes, garlic and onion through a sieve to remove the skins.

Blitz the sauce in a food processor.

Pour into sterilised jars and heat seal if you plan to store it for the winter.

Purple beauties

Marinated eggplant (Melanzane marinate)

Serves: 6-8 Prep time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

Method:

Dressing:

Christmas Canestrelli

Canestrelli

Ingredients:

Method:

Recipes for my Italian summer

Living like a local in Genova

Italian celebrations – Ferragosto

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Italian food

Passata

Ingredients:

Method:

Halve the tomatoes and place in a single layer in a baking dish.

Season with plenty of salt and pepper.

Add the onion, garlic, oregano, basil and bay leaves.

Pour over the oil.

Roast in a 150 degree preheated oven until the tomatoes begin to blister and collapse.

Remove the herbs and bay leaves.

Pass the tomatoes, garlic and onion through a sieve to remove the skins.

Blitz the sauce in a food processor.

Pour into sterilised jars and heat seal if you plan to store it for the winter.

Marinated eggplant (Melanzane marinate)

Serves: 6-8 Prep time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

Method:

Dressing:

Canestrelli

Ingredients:

Method:

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