Verona is a city that’s hard to beat for its beauty, style and of course, the friendly Veronesi. Genova, ‘La Superba’, on the other hand, is a city much magligned by tourists but it is a fascinating city with a long and prosperous history, rich in culture, great shopping and food, with the stunning ligurian coastline, the jewel in the crown.
I’m returning – my fourth visit – this time to see friends, with no programme of activities planned. Five days, staying with Emiliana in the heart of the historical centre at B&B Quarto Piano, a beautiful modern apartment in an old palazzo across the way from Palazzo Spinola, constructed in 1593 which is now a museum filled with artworks but also maintained as it was with the frescoes, furnishings, ceramics and silverware of the wealthy Spinola family.
The ancient vicoli, dirty and smelly at times, wind their way through the centre.The narrow lanes of the centro storico are lined with shops of all descriptions. Cheap clothing to handcrafted italian shoes and delicatessens filled with olives, cheese and their delicious Ligurian delights, to the panifici for fresh bread and my favourite, Genovese focaccia, as well as bars, jewellery stores, butchers – you name it, it’s here.