Italian Journeys

Something to look forward to

To be hopeful, to embrace one possibility after another — that is surely the basic instinct . . . Time to take this life for what it is!

~ Barbara Kingsolver

The beautiful renaissance Piazza Ducale, Vigevano – Northern Italy in Lombardy

The first substantial rain a few days ago heralded the arrival of autumn in our patch of Australia. Much needed after our hot, dry summer. Autumn is my favourite season with its warm sunny days and cool nights, perfect for sleeping. And the ever-changing canvas of turning leaves is glorious on our walks. This year though, I’m leaving autumn behind and looking forward to experiencing spring in Italy.

My year had a slow beginning. January didn’t belong to me and some rocky moments had me limping through February. I’ve been out of step with life and this transition period has inched along with scant movement in the important areas of my life. The past few weeks have been busy with planning and finishing tasks associated with leaving—preparing the garden so that it’s easy for mum to maintain, plans for the princess dog, and the slow transition to a different working life inching forward in the midst of it all. It’s made me feel anxious rather than excited. There hasn’t been space in my mind to think about or look forward to our Italian adventure.

Until now.

Celebrating special moments from Italian journeys

Sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory.

~ Dr Seus

St Peter’s Cathedral, Rome — View of St Peter’s Cathedral from the Vatican museum

The first of my Italian journeys was in 2007 and what an adventure of discovery it ignited! It began in Rome when I was recovering from a long illness. I was wide-eyed with awe, still clumsy with my camera, and finding my way with the Italian language.

My initial experience was filled with all the romantic images of my dreams: cobblestone streets, ancient monuments, the motorcycles, dashing Italian men and of course, stylish women who manage to sashay in high heels along those ancient roman piazzas.

Yes, it was all of that, and much more. That first visit kindled a passion that has burned brighter with every Italian journey since. I use the word journey in the traditional sense of ‘travelling from one place to another’ but I also like the additional dictionary meaning of ‘passage or progress from one stage to another’.

I’ve travelled to many places in Italy — from Milan to Mantua, Bologna to Bari and all around the beautiful region of Liguria. And these Italian journeys have played a huge part in the story of me, this passage from one stage of my life, to another.

Italian cooking lessons in Verona. Preparing food, developing friendships, finding my heart.

The story of my Italian journeys had its genesis in a blog called Italian Journeys. The blog has been neglected in recent times, but looking through the photos, I’ve reconnected with some special moments from the past. The stories about the people, places and culture of Italy are, to quote Carole King’s line from the song ‘Tapestry’, ‘the rich and royal hues’ which I want to weave into my new story.

And to bring this story into the new narrative, I begin with a photo story of the landscapes, people, architecture and food which have inspired and delighted me during some of my Italian journeys over the past decade.

Rome was so much more than I imagined. Sure, the ancient monuments, St Peter’s, the Villa Borghese, and the Vatican Museum were magnificent, but it was more than that. It was the musicality of the Italian language, the Italian style — from clothes to manners, motorcycles and of course, the gelato! That’s me in the white hat buying fresh fruit. I’d never seen tomatoes so red and it seemed that the fruit was plumper, juicier and more vibrant than at home. Perhaps it’s that exhilarating feeling you have when you visit a new place which makes everything seem wonderful!

We stayed in the Cinque Terre for a week, ate fresh seafood every day, swam in the bluest of oceans, and strolled along the Lovers Walk with its stupendous views of the rugged coastline of the Italian Riviera.

Watching the sunset over the Mediterranean every evening as we sipped aperitivi (a most delightful Italian tradition) with the locals.

*Amore* and that famous sculpture in the garden at the Rodin Museum

Our first trip ended with a week in the city of love, Paris. A visit to the Musée Rodin, and a stroll through the sculpture garden is a must! This quote by the master seems so apt as I create my tapestry:

Where shall we begin? There is no beginning. Start where you arrive. Stop before what entices you. And work! You will enter little by little into the entirety. Method will be born in proportion to your interest.

~ Auguste Rodin

A trip to Greece with girlfriends in 2008 culminated in a week in Genoa where I met my Italian penpal, Rosa. It was the beginning of many friendships in this surprising city. Not called La Superba for nothing, the city is filled with amazing architecture, beautiful churches and exquisite art.

Camerino Italy — The cathedral in the walled city of Camerino

Immersed in local culture during a month long stay in the medieval city, Camerino in the region of Le Marche in 2009. An unforgettable experience, with Italian language lessons every day. Excursions to Gubbio, the mountains in Norcia, the city of Assisi and the university city of Perugia were part of my education and deepened my love for this beautiful country.

After my Language course, Amore and I explored the region of Le Marche. We stayed on a farm, had the beach near Ancona to ourselves, and explored the Apennine Mountains.

View across the Adige River, Verona — View across the Adige River. One of many special moments in the city of Verona

Verona, one of my favourite Italian cities and where I return often. My first visit in 2011 was a month long Italian language course. I have special memories of warm and open-hearted Italians, great food and visits to vineyards, sampling delicious Soave wine in the summer.

So many picture postcard towns in the Gulf of Paradise, Liguria

Bogliasco, a typical fishing village is one of the reasons the Gulf of Paradise lives up to its name. Nothing strenuous to do here except soak up the atmosphere, eat delicious seafood and take a passeggiata (stroll).

Lovely Lucca

The city of Lucca in Tuscany in 2012 during a hot summer. Memories of strolling along the city walls, cooking lessons, visiting the beautiful baroque gardens of Palazzo Pfanner and eating Farinata, a traditional flatbread made with chickpea flour. For a respite from the heat, I ventured into the surrounding hills of the Garfagnana region stopping at a family operated cheese house where I watched ricotta cheese being made. (Click on the images for a larger view)

Winter in Italy

Lots of firsts in 2013 — my first visit in winter and first Christmas in Italy; first time to the beautiful city of Mantua and eating their characteristic dish of Tortelli di zucca (pumpkin tortelli). Served in a sage butter sauce, it was buonissimo! My first time seeing snow in the north of Italy near Trento and a visit to the Christmas markets in Bolzano were special moments. And memories of my first Christmas with friends in Genoa, warms my heart. (Click on the images for a larger view)

Two weeks of Italian conversation on the shore of lake Maggiore was the beginning of my visit in 2016. Italian lessons homestyle, in the mornings and adventures around the lake in the afternoons.

Sojourn by the lake

Isola Bella with its sumptuous palazzo and over-the-top baroque gardens show the luxurious lifestyle of the Borromeo family in the 1600s. A short ferry ride from Stresa on the mainland, it’s an eye-popping place to visit. The gardens are magnificent, landscaped in the Italianate style. Isola Madre also impresses. Its English style botanic gardens cover eight hectares and surround the palazzo. Hibiscus flowers the size of saucers, a beautiful lily pond and magnificent views across the lake made it a memorable visit.

Amore and I stayed on Isola dei Pescatori, (Fisherman’s Island) for a few nights. The smallest of the islands, it is filled with tourists and stalls selling cheap souvenirs during the day. At night though, when the ferries have stopped, it is very romantic. And waking up in the morning with the sun rising over the mountains, is special.(Click on the images for a larger view)

The city of Genoa is the place where I feel most at home in Italy. Good friendships forged over the past decade make this a special place. It’s a surprising city filled with magnificent art and architecture, fresh seafood, wonderful traditions, and warm friendly locals. And even though I’ve explored many of the picturesque towns along the coast of Liguria, there always seems to be another village or festival to see. (Click on the images for a larger view)

The Masseria Stefano del Conte – steeped in southern Italian history and tradition.

It was my first visit to the south of Italy in 2016. Red earth, ancient olive groves and warm-hearted people characterise Puglia. We stayed at the beautiful Masseria Stefano del Conte for two weeks, a family owned farm with 1000 year old olive trees, delicious food and ancient history. New friendships made here and promises to return.

Delightful Puglia

My final gallery of some things that delighted us in Puglia. Breakfasts at the masseria and some dinners as well, always beautifully prepared and presented. Our hosts opened their house and their hearts to us and I feel blessed and grateful. Drives along the coast and a visit to the town of Alberobello, filled with trulli and tourists. (Click on the images for a larger view)

This photo story has brought some special moments over the past decade to life again. It’s reminded me that although some stories should be left behind, some moments from the past have brought colour and richness to my life. The people, places and experiences from my Italian journeys have helped shaped who I am and these ‘rich and royal hues’ are essential to the tapestry I’m creating.

The Italian journey is ongoing, as are the stories that you will read here − because it’s more than visiting new places, it’s also about my immersion in the culture through learning the language, through cooking and eating Italian food and through the enduring friendships I’ve developed on my sojourns in il bel paese (the beautiful country).

I hope my photos took you on an Italian journey and perhaps inspire you to take a journey of your own. Or maybe these photos brought back memories of special moments from journeys you’ve taken. I’d love to hear your stories, so please leave me a comment or send an email.

’til next time

NOTE: All photos featured here are mine, taken over a ten year period when I travelled solo or with Amore.

Creating a tapestry

My life has been a tapestry of rich and royal hue,
An everlasting vision of the ever-changing view
A wondrous woven magic in bits of blue and gold
A tapestry to feel and see, impossible to hold

~ Carole King

Creating the tapestry — Our first trip to Italy included a week in Paris and a visit to Monet’s sublime garden in Giverny. Lots of beautiful memories with so much colour and beauty, including a bike ride in the countryside.

My shift in imagination brought an awareness that I should write a new story which brings all the parts of who I am, together into one narrative. Writing the new story feels to me like creating a tapestry : first the design, which began as I asked the questions, this evolved into a silhouette, and became more substantive as I explored the possibilities.

Cultural visits in the Veneto and Lombardy

Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.

~ Anna Akhmatova

Like many regions is Italy, the Veneto region is a rich cultural centre. Along with Mantua in Lombardy, there’s lots to see and do at any time of the year. These are a few of the exhibitions I visited over a few days in the winter.

Verona

Gianni Berengo Gardin – Stories of a photographer

Currently, there is an exhibition ‘tracing the most important moments in the photographic career of Gianni Berengo Gardin’ one of Italy’s most renowned photo journalists. Entitled The Story of a Photographer, with more than 180 photographs, the exhibition is located in the Scavi Scaligeri Musem. This is a unique underground setting, perfect for Gianni Berengo Gardin’s black and white photos which really do tell stories from the perspective of the people he photographs.

The museum itself is very interesting and is the result of excavations carried out in the 1980s when Roman and early medieval remains were discovered. The museum was created to show the roman stone roads and sewers and mosaic floors from the first century A.D., as well a Lombard tomb and the foundation work of medieval towers. All in their original setting.

There is also a fascinating video of an interview with the photographer. Audio guides are available in English as well as Italian. Audio guides are available for explanations of some of the photos by the photographer.

For more information the Comune di Verona Portal is a good place to start.

Verso Monet
(Around Monet) The history of landscape art from the 17th to the 20th century

The exhibition shows the evolution of landscape art from the 17th to the 20th centuries and includes paintings from Van Gogh, Renoir, Turner, Canaletto and degas to name a few. The exhibition is separated into 5 sections and there are twenty works by Claude Monet.

The exhibition is on at the Palazzo del Gran Guardia, an impressive building in Piazza Bra. Unfortunately, the long-winded accompanying text is in Italian with no English translations.

The Tourism Verona portal has more information.

Mantova

Amore e Psiche (Love and Psyche -The tale of the Soul)

At the magnificent Palazzo Te with its beautiful gardens, this exhibition takes you on a journey through the myth of the love of Cupid and Psyche and includes contemporary works by Rodin, Canova and Salvador Dali.

It tells the story of Psyche, the mortal beauty who becomes Cupid’s bride (the god of love) without ever being able to see his face. One night, she is urged by her jealous sisters to shine a light on his face, but a drop of hot wax falls on him and he takes flight. Psyche has to face a series of tests, at the end of which she becomes immortal and rejoins her husband.

A wonderful exhibition for all the romantics out there with the story told in English and Italian.

As well as the exhibition you’ll see Psyche’s Room, The hall of the giants and The hall of the horses, all with beautiful, vivid frescoes – truly magnificent to behold!

For more information, visit Mantova City guide

Palazzo Ducale

The palazzo is a complex of buildings built between the 14th and the 17th century for the noble family of Gonzaga as their royal residence. The buildings are connected by corridors and galleries and have beautiful internal courtyards and wide gardens.

It includes around 500 rooms and occupies a huge area. Although most famous for Mantegna’s frescos in the Camera degli sposi (Wedding room), there are many other beautiful rooms including the Tapestry hall and Isabella D’Este’s apartment.

Make sure that you have a few hours to explore, and if you visit during winter, wear warm clothes as the palace is freezing!

Cari saluti …

PS: Look forward to my next post with a few photos of Mantova

Marvellous Mantova

I love places that have an incredible history.
I love the Italian way of life.
I love the food. I love the people.
I love the attitudes of Italians.

~ Elton John

Palazzo Te, Mantova with its beautiful frescoes

Mantova is a beautiful city just 40 minutes by train from Verona. Many people bypass this city but it is well worth a visit if only to sample the specialty of the region, Tortelli di zucca con burro e salvia a pasta dish prepared with pumpkin, served in a light butter sauce with sage… delicious!

After lunch, wander through the three beautiful piazzas which are adjacent to each other. Across the piazza Sordello you’ll find the Palazzo Ducale which was home to the powerful Gonzaga family for more than 400 years.

The palazzo has around 500 rooms, internal courtyards and beautiful gardens. Although many of the rooms are closed there are wonderful galleries as well as the beautiful tapestry room and a mirror gallery. The lifestyles of the nobility in medieval times must have been sumptuous!

If gardens are your thing, hop on the city loop bus or take a 25 minute walk to Palazzo Te, a beautiful rennaisance building with extensive gardens. The amazing frescoes, especially in the Sala dei Giganti (The room of the giants) are a marvel to behold!

The city itself is small enough to explore on foot and there are many beautiful buildings such as the Rotonda di San Lorenzo, built in the 11th century and the Teatro Bibiena, a fabulous example of rococo architecture and the theatre where the 13-year-old Mozart once performed.

Gardens surrounding the Palazzo Ducale, Mantova

Marvellous Mantova, well worth a visit.

Buona visita!

Continuing the journey…

It’s been an hiatus of almost a year since my last post (yes, it’s been that long since I was in bell’Italia). I was feeling sorry for myself, thinking that I couldn’t write about Italy without being there to experience it first hand − and suddenly, the light came on! My Italian journey is ongoing, albeit in Australia! Italian language lessons, culture and food still are a big part of my life.

For now, it’s about the memories of my last Italian summer…

With the backdrop of an Adelaide winter − cold and wet with mostly grey skies − I remember my summer in Italy last year. Under a hot Italian sun I swam in the ocean in Liguria, sweltered in the humidity of Verona and found tranquil moments in beautiful places with Italian friends. These are some of the memories!

The beautiful Ligurian Riviera