Discovering the extraordinary in the ordinary
Cin cin, Isabella
The Republic of Venice was formally known as the Most Serene Republic of Venice and is often referred to as La Serenissima, one of the “Most Serene Republics”. It’s an early start on our final day in the Veneto as Timo, a seaman at heart and would-be fisher wants to check out the fish markets. We brave the bucketing rain and icy wind and can’t believe the prices of the fish for sale.
The terrible weather meant that we didn’t see the market in its full glory but it was interesting to see varieties of fish (including a huge swordfish) we don’t find in the Adelaide Central Market.
Much later, when the rain reduces to occasional showers, we venture forth again, exploring the alleys and in the evening we enjoy a performance of the opera. A bit corny, but entertaining nonetheless.
Another chilly day greeted us as we stepped out of our lodgings. A ride along the Grand Canal on a vaporetto is a delight even though we are chilled to the bone. Bellissimi palazzi, all types of boats and of course the ubiquitous gondole.
In 1630 Venice experienced an unusually devastating outbreak of the plague.As a votive offering for the city’s deliverance from the pestilence, the Republic of venice vowed to build and dedicate a church to Our Lady of Health (or of deliverance). In 1631 the Baroque architect Baldassarre Longhena began to build the magnificent Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (The Basilica of St Mary of Health), one of the most beautiful churches in Venice and a symbol of theGrand Canal. It stands on a narrow finger of land between the Grand Canal and the Bacino di 
Grand palazzi line the Grand Canal…more than 170 buildings, most of which date back from the 13th to the 18th century. I think a return visit is in order, when the weather is kinder so that we can appreciate the magnificence.
Ciao for now, Isabella
Venice greeted us with rain accompanied by a chilling wind. This was a bad omen. A last minute booking at a B&B turned out to be our first italian disappointment in all the years we’ve been visiting. After Verona, where we had been received so graciously, our venetian hosts did not live up to expectations. The breakfast part of the B&B turned out to be a cafe 500m away where the cafe staff treated us with disdain and were extremely unhelpful. And it rained, and rained…The chilly wind drove everyone, including us, from piazza San Marco.
But, we walked — across the Rialto bridge to piazza San Marco and il Palazzo Ducale, the Doge’s palace, where we joined the queue of tourists seeking shelter from the cold and rain. An impressive, enormous building, it was the seat of the government of Venice for centuries. As well as being the home of the Doge (the elected ruler of Venice) it was the venue for its law courts, its civil administration and bureaucracy and — until its relocation across the Bridge of Sighs — the city jail.
A ride on a vaporetto with the chilling wind in our faces was our experience of the Grand Canal. Dinner that night, although tasty, was served by sour-faced waiters, which spoiled the experience. Then it was a fast walk back to our room and bed, with the hope that the next day would be better.
Buona notte, Isabella
Bottega del Vino, hidden in a side lane off one of the main streets in Verona is one of the best places for a dining experience. Not a 5 star setting, it nevertheless serves up 5 star meals with fantastic wines and attentive service. Timo and I chose it for our last meal in Verona having read all the fantastic reviews.
A busy place…book if you want to ensure a table…we had to wait a little while for our table. Once seated, you are treated like royalty. The waiter suggested wines to go with the meal, which was superb — from the antipasti showcasing the best cured meats of the Veneto, to the delicious pasta and finally…decadent desserts. Our usual ‘eat til you’re 80% full’ rule was forgotten and we just about rolled out of the place, filled with good food and wine.
Buon appetito, Isabella
Our final day in the city of love and beauty. We have fallen in love with Verona and its people. In Piazza Erbe, we take the steps up the Torre dei Lamberti for a panoramic view of the city, pausing to rest a couple of times.
At 84m high, the tower is the highest in Verona and dates back to 12th century. The clock was added in the 18th century.The tower was built to warn the city of impending disasters such as fire or attacks by the Venetians.
Two bells were installed – the smaller, the Marangona, was used for fire alerts; the larger, the Rengo, was used to call the citizens to arms or to call the city council to meetings. Unfortunately, the Venetians got control of Verona anyway but the views from the tower are spectacular.
In Piazza dei Signori, we say hello to Dante, who had to flee Florence because he backed the wrong side, but he was favoured by the nobles in Verona and settled here.
Then it is a final farewell to some special Veronese friends.
Ciao …Isabella
